Yelena Dressmaking & Accessories

  Look at the photo below: that’s the only photo I have to show the original look of that sweater. Though nicely knitted of 4ply cashmere, it had a bizarre shape. Very baggy bodice with super tight sleeves. Was it meant to be a cape-sweater to be worn over shoulders with sleeves functioning as a scarf?—I will never know because it was passed onto me by a friend who couldn’t wear it either. I made my first attempt at wearing in as seen on that photo, with sleeves removed and body slightly pinched for shape. That’s what you see in that photo in a ski resort town in the province of Quebec in Canada. The newly made vest was warm, but I didn’t like its bulk. So, I decided to go to the extreme measures and unravel the whole sweater, sleeves and all. Try doing that, it’s surprisingly rewarding, like any small and peaceful act of destruction.  Then, with several balls of yarn and an array of hooks I set up to experiment. I looked at some magazine photos (see the mood board below) from...

Original sweater from Garnet Hill. A pin at the bottom marks the only hole, so tiny, it was easy to avoid in my experiment. A “dickey” — a decorative scarf alternative that can be worn over another sweater or shirt, under a jacket or cardigan to keep you warm and stylish without extra bulk or constraint. The edging is crochet cashmere. Hat (cut from the bottom of the sweater) and mittens (cut from the sleeve ends) with crocheted thumbs that open for technology. The pink yarn, just like on the dickey, was sourced from another cashmere sweater that was easier to unravel. It’s the same gnome on both photos. His boots, mittens, nose and beard are from other discarded cashmere sweaters.  One more hat with the bottom part from a different sweater, same as the pompon.  It all started with a few cashmere sweaters whose sleeves were too tight to wear. The obvious choice was to make them into vests. I did some of that, but I wanted to experiment beyond the obvious. So, above are the 5 i...

 A friend came by with an off-white vintage cashmere coat, and a message “do what you wish with it!”  She knew my interest in preserving old jackets (see my post “The vintage vintage coat”). I examined the sample: the coat was in great condition, save one 3mm hole on the back; it was well made and maintained, the lining was impeccable. However, the 3/4 length A-line silhouette with 3/4 sleeves needed my intervention. Lengthening the sleeves was the easiest improvement. But there came a dilemma: what do I lengthening them with? Fur? Contrasting fabric? Oh, crochet might work! So, I got out my yarns. Unexpectedly, I liked the brown acrylic crocheted into bubbles best next to the light shade and smooth texture of the coat’s cashmere. I decided to adorn the collar as well so there would be cohesiveness in the garment. The plastic buttons were old, slightly cracked and discolored by time. Thus, I crocheted over them, making sure they sill fit into original buttonholes. And that hol...

    Thrifting is a great trend in many ways: it can save the buyer some money while a piece of unique, interesting or otherwise admirable clothing is acquired; it can reduce fashion waste; the proceeds from sales are often passed onto charities. However, there are quite a few things to keep in mind before investing in a used outfit.  1. Know your labels. If your idea of thrifting is to get an expensive brand for less, make sure you know what the brand label looks like (I’ve seen fakes as well as “close enough” where one letter difference made it not the haut couture item the buyer hoped for). Also, each brand’s sizing is different, so if you can’t try on the outfit at the secondhand store, check the sizing on the brand’s website. Keep in mind that vintage items might have a whole different scale of sizing and fit, even if the brand is the same. If the care label states “No washing or drycleaning”, think of how sanitary this item would be: if you plan to wear it as a secon...

     On my recent trip to Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I came across a man’s linen shirt from the 17th century. Something was warmly familiar about it. Ah, the underarm gussets: diamond-shaped patches inserted in the underarm area to give more freedom of movement to the arm. Lifting an arm above the shoulder level without this insert would have been difficult: the seam —or worse—the fabric could reap.       I myself have constructed several garments, and altered a countless number of tops and dresses using this handy technique. Often, the gussets are put in not just for the movement, but for a roomier fit; in other words, if the dress is too tight in the bust area or around the upper arm, or in both areas—this is the simplest solution. If the fabric of the patch is not a perfect match to the facing fabric, it’s less noticeable in that spot. And if the gusset can stretch, all the better!      If the gusset is too large, it can tu...

Usually, I don’t post my clients’ photos on these pages, but I got an OK here from both of them, had to think of the best time to post it, and decided on around Mother's Day.  About a year ago, I was contacted by a bride-to-be, Brittany, who wanted her “second” (some call it reception or just “fun”) dress made out of her mother’s gown. The original gown sat professionally preserved for 30+ years. We opened the box in my studio and discussed the changes to be made: yards of length to be removed, along with about 10 bows, sleeves, and a pile of tule and mesh that held the crinoline. I also needed to adjust the sizing some — all bodies are shaped differently! I’ve done similar work before, so I knew where to start. To my amazement, I found numerous pins hidden between dress’ layers, some oxidized from age; however, it didn’t alter the plans. In some spots, I needed to move pieces of lace from one area to another.  The dress was made, and Brittany and her mother, Dawn, were happy ...

  Repurposing and up-cycling garment-industry items Level of difficulty: * DIY (maybe, with online tutorial)                             ** need basic sewing experience                              *** ask an expert Item at hand:         Quantity:     Turn it into:       Square scarf                          Scrunchie (or 3)** (Silk, poly, cotton)        1.       Bracelet (fold&tie)*                                     Purse lining***   ...