Underarm gussets—what are they?

     On my recent trip to Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I came across a man’s linen shirt from the 17th century. Something was warmly familiar about it. Ah, the underarm gussets: diamond-shaped patches inserted in the underarm area to give more freedom of movement to the arm. Lifting an arm above the shoulder level without this insert would have been difficult: the seam —or worse—the fabric could reap. 

     I myself have constructed several garments, and altered a countless number of tops and dresses using this handy technique. Often, the gussets are put in not just for the movement, but for a roomier fit; in other words, if the dress is too tight in the bust area or around the upper arm, or in both areas—this is the simplest solution. If the fabric of the patch is not a perfect match to the facing fabric, it’s less noticeable in that spot. And if the gusset can stretch, all the better!

     If the gusset is too large, it can turn the sleeve into a batwing. It’s up to the designer and wearer to decide whether that’s a good thing.