Dressmaker’s tips for smart thrifting

    Thrifting is a great trend in many ways: it can save the buyer some money while a piece of unique, interesting or otherwise admirable clothing is acquired; it can reduce fashion waste; the proceeds from sales are often passed onto charities. However, there are quite a few things to keep in mind before investing in a used outfit. 

1. Know your labels. If your idea of thrifting is to get an expensive brand for less, make sure you know what the brand label looks like (I’ve seen fakes as well as “close enough” where one letter difference made it not the haut couture item the buyer hoped for). Also, each brand’s sizing is different, so if you can’t try on the outfit at the secondhand store, check the sizing on the brand’s website. Keep in mind that vintage items might have a whole different scale of sizing and fit, even if the brand is the same. If the care label states “No washing or drycleaning”, think of how sanitary this item would be: if you plan to wear it as a second layer, you are good to go, otherwise —trust your instincts.

2. Check for alterations. The item with a size 10 label might have been altered to fit the previous owner who was size 6. If the seam allowances have been cut and surged, it’s hard to notice the changes. So, bring with you a measuring tape and a list of your own body measurements to make sure you are getting the item that will fit you. Measure before you pay!

3. Pay attention to stains. Do they look gross? Are they large? Are they at peculiar areas? Washing or dry cleaning might not be the answer for some deep, old or permanent spots. While small stains can be camouflaged with embroidery or appliqué which can even enhance the item, a large blood stain in the crotch is yours to keep if you bought such pants without checking… 

4. Keep the buttons, zippers and buckles in mind. Replacing buttons can get pricey. A single top-brand button could cost you as much as an entire vintage jacket in mediocre condition. At times, the exact matches for buttons are impossible to find, so all buttons on the garment would have to be replaced. Exception: if you enjoy the look of mismatched buttons — go for it! Replacing a zipper might also bring a used item to the price of a new one or even higher. 

5. Examine the lining and pockets. The lining fabric can wear out faster than the facing material (leather, for instance). Replacing lining can get expensive and may look off. Same goes for stretched out elastic. The elastic band could have been attached by the manufacturer to the entire length of the waistband of a skirt, say. That would require a major alteration. While the elastic that is not attached all the way, but rather strung through a tunnel , can be easily replaced. It’s not always possible to figure out the difference without taking the garment apart.

6. Are there any tears, holes, snags, loose hems? Tears, just like stains, on discrete areas can disappear into an existing or added seam, while on highly visible areas can be covered with visual accents. However, a large hole might be hard to patch effectively. Threadbare stress areas (knees, elbows, inner thy area) might not be worth thatching or patching. Snags on tweed or knits might be permanent. Hems though are a rather straight forward fix.

7. If the item is clearly not your size but you love it, the alteration might surpass the price of a made-to-measure item of similar quality. 

Check for all of the above, and contact your trusted (or inner) tailor to determine the cost of repairs before you buy the item. 

8. Odors. If the item cannot be washed, and has an unpleasant smell, forego it. 

   After all, we don’t know the previous life of the secondhand store finds. So, use your own judgment before a low price tag entices you. A thrifted item that ends up in your trash pile because it can’t be worn is not helping anyone, unless you consider the money spent a donation to the good cause that your store supports. 

   But don’t swear off thrifting just yet! Because a rare cut of a vintage item can be replicated in your own choice of fabric if that item is taken apart and used as a base pattern. Unique buttons and other adornments can be harvested from the useless garment and repositioned onto a different piece of your clothing. And if you find a true gem in the wrong size, think of it as a framed or mannequinned display object. Just make sure you have the space to showcase it!