Yelena Dressmaking & Accessories

    Thrifting is a great trend in many ways: it can save the buyer some money while a piece of unique, interesting or otherwise admirable clothing is acquired; it can reduce fashion waste; the proceeds from sales are often passed onto charities. However, there are quite a few things to keep in mind before investing in a used outfit.  1. Know your labels. If your idea of thrifting is to get an expensive brand for less, make sure you know what the brand label looks like (I’ve seen fakes as well as “close enough” where one letter difference made it not the haut couture item the buyer hoped for). Also, each brand’s sizing is different, so if you can’t try on the outfit at the secondhand store, check the sizing on the brand’s website. Keep in mind that vintage items might have a whole different scale of sizing and fit, even if the brand is the same. If the care label states “No washing or drycleaning”, think of how sanitary this item would be: if you plan to wear it as a secon...

     On my recent trip to Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I came across a man’s linen shirt from the 17th century. Something was warmly familiar about it. Ah, the underarm gussets: diamond-shaped patches inserted in the underarm area to give more freedom of movement to the arm. Lifting an arm above the shoulder level without this insert would have been difficult: the seam —or worse—the fabric could reap.       I myself have constructed several garments, and altered a countless number of tops and dresses using this handy technique. Often, the gussets are put in not just for the movement, but for a roomier fit; in other words, if the dress is too tight in the bust area or around the upper arm, or in both areas—this is the simplest solution. If the fabric of the patch is not a perfect match to the facing fabric, it’s less noticeable in that spot. And if the gusset can stretch, all the better!      If the gusset is too large, it can tu...