Proportions: long torso

 Not all bodies are proportioned equally. Not all bodies are symmetrical either. What looks great on one person might not work for another. This is the first article in series of various body types’ outfitting research that I accumulated over the years of working with multitude of clients. Here are some ideas that might make you more comfortable and confident in the relationship of your body with your wardrobe.

  People with long torso usually have shorter than average limbs and longer than average bodies with a distinctive waist line. I know, because I’m one of those people. Here are a few strategies for clothes shopping (mostly online, but might be adapted to the brick-and-mortar) to save the long-torseans some time and money.

Pants: look for size Tall in your numerical size or one below. It has a longer waist to crotch ratio than the Regular size. If the style is cropped, you might not even need to hem your pants. Just keep in mind that it will not look the same as on the photo on the truly tall model. High waist styles would fit best in all sizing groups. However, skip the Petit section even if the length of the pant-legs seems right. The crotch area will be too short. For the alterations ideas look below.

Tops: empire waist line may end up in the middle of your bust instead of below it, therefore might not be a good choice unless it’s custom-made. Cropped styles could feel too short, so for a cropped top look, check out the tops that in description end at the waist line. If you prefer to tuck in your button downs and sweaters, you might have to opt for the Tall styles, keeping in mind that the sleeves will need to be shortened and possibly tapered, even on short-sleeved tops potentially. 

Dresses: good news is that you could find the empire waist dress, unlike the tops, in a Tall section, where most of the dresses that fit those with long torsos should be bought. We face the same sleeve shortening issue as with the tops. 

Bathing suits: Tall or long torso sizes are available in some brands for one piece styles. Two piece with high waisted bottom in Regular should fit perfectly and might be preferred in terms of comfort. Tankini tops might need a band attached to the bottom edge.

Jumpsuits: Tall size, roomy legs, accentuated waist. The best ones would have elastic bands in the shoulder straps.

General rules for long torsos of average or shorter height: long sleeves on Petit tops might seem to make sense, yet in reality they might be a bit too short and/or tight than expected and make arms look even shorter. Petit tops length might be too short or feel disproportionate on the body as well. Same goes for the Petit and some Regular pants and skirts, whose waist to hip slope might not alight with the long torso. 

Alterations. Extensions can be added to the shoulder seam area of sleeveless garments. Sleeves and pant legs can be hemmed and might need tailoring to achieve desired width. Pencil skirts might need extra darts in the back. But the most important one is the crotch reposition. It can only work on wider and longer styles since it’s going to take away from the length of the pant legs. Here is how it’s done: with the pant legs folded together inseam to inseam, pinch 1 to 2” from on the inside edge of the inseam; pin a line tapering to front and back; stitch along that line; open the previously pinched part of the inseam; try on the pants—if they fit to your liking, cut the excess of the previously pinched area and clean finish. This process would be more complicated on jeans and pants with reinforced crotch seam. An inserted diamond-shaped gusset is another possibility, yet it might be too visible unless the gusset is cut from the same fabric as the pants. 

Superpowers of the long-torseans. You can wear wide belts, ruffles on shirts, low-cut necklines, and high-waisted super-wide pants, skirts or culottes like no others!  Fitted tops and loose bottoms create a very flattering silhouette for long torsos. Shorter structured and tailored in the waist jackets look better than the longer straight ones. Think Dior’s The New Look vs. classic Chanel.

Avoid if possible: heavy bracelets, ankle straps on shoes, oversized tops, 3/4 sleeves, chunky knit sweaters, low-waist pants or jeans.